Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
